France - Avignon & Provence - Travel Story

Written by Dorothy Pan Friday, 15 July 2011 02:10

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Avignon & Provence Travel Story

Avignon's Famous Palais des Papes & Pont de St. Benezet

Enclosed within a wall of medieval ramparts, Avignon’s old town is a labyrinth of cobblestone streets, architectural marvels, and culinary delights. Located in Southern France, it is one of the main cities in Provence and sits high above the banks of the Rhone River. The main attraction here is the Palais des Papes, or the Papal Palace. It was the reason for the construction of this historic fortified city, which is now a UNESCO Heritage site. The other major attraction is the Pont d’Avignon, also known as Pont de St. Benezet. The famous French children’s song, “Sur le Pont d’Avignon” is based on this bridge, however the original title of the song was actually “Sous le Pont d’Avignon”, meaning under the bridge of Avignon. In medieval times there were cafes under the arches where the dancing would take place.

These were the first stops on our walk through this captivating city. We didn’t have time to go in to the Palais des Papes, but just getting the opportunity to stand in the large open court staring up at the stately structure was enough for us. We walked around the area, climbed to the top of the stairs for a wonderful view of the square, and then headed down to the Pont d’Avignon.

The bridge originally spanned the river Rhone between Avignon and Villeneuve-les-Avignon, but due to floods the bridge was constantly being rebuilt. After the disastrous flood of 1668, which took out a large chunk of the bridge, it was abandoned and today only 4 of the original 22 arches remain. Its elliptical shape of the arches allowed them to span up to 35 meters, longer than any Roman arch spans. Strategically, this bridge is significant in that it is the only permanent river crossing between Lyon and the Mediterranean Sea.

 

We arrived at the Hotel de L’Horloge and were pleasantly surprised by the convenient location right off the main square. The hotel was older so it had a scent of old barnyard and floors that creaked in protest with every step we took. One has to keep in mind, however, that all hotels in this area are older so you won’t necessarily get a ‘better’ hotel even if you pay more. Still, once you looked past the less than friendly front desk workers and the showerhead that could only be used as a hand held, the hotel had charm and was about as central as you can get.

Upscale Dining at Hiély-Lucullus

After spending the afternoon lazily roaming the romantic maze-like streets of Avignon, we settled down to dinner at the famous Hiély-Lucullus. Known as one of the best restaurants in Avignon, we decided that though expensive, it was a must try experience. The restaurant was beautifully decorated in a luxurious Belle Époque style and the cuisine was phenomenal. Unfortunately, the lacklustre service (presumably because we were the youngest patrons in the restaurant) put a damper on our experience.

 

Provence Le Grand Tour

The next day we got up bright and early for a tour that we had booked with Viator called Provence Le Grand Tour. It was undoubtedly my favorite organized tour of the trip, probably my favorite ever.

Orange's Arc de Triomphe & Amphitheatre

We started off in the town of Orange, which was historically a Roman city, hence the Roman architecture that this city is known for. The main attractions here are the Arc de Triomphe d’Orange, and the Roman Amphitheatre, known as Theatre Antique d’Orange, both of which are UNESCO World Heritage Sites. Our stop at the Arc de Triomphe d’Orange was really a 10-minute photo op since it was just a standalone structure with roads built around it. It’s a much smaller version than its Parisian counterpart, but still very impressive and full of historical significance.

Next on the list was the amphitheatre. It is one of the most well preserved Roman theatres in the world. Putting on shows here was a way of spreading Roman culture to the colonies, and to divert their attention away from political activities. Today, the theatre is used for symphonies, operas, and other concerts and can even be rented out for personal events. When we arrived there weren’t too many people in the theatre so we had the opportunity to get some really nice photos. We climbed to the top where we were rewarded with a stunning view of the city, which was made all the more interesting by the theatre in the foreground. It was an amazing experience to sit there in the stillness and imagine what it would have been like in its time.

Wine Tasting in Châteauneuf-du-Pape

Just south of Orange is Châteauneuf-du-Pape, one of the most famous wine regions in the world, producing also some of the best wines in the world. We stopped for a tour and tasting at a family run winery and were not disappointed. This region permits thirteen different varieties of grape, but is predominantly Grenache. They also grow their grapes using “galets roules” - round rocks that are typically remnants of Alpine glaciers and used to cover the clay to retain heat from the sun, ripening the grapes faster. The Châteauneuf-du-Pape region is steeped in papal history, which is why most of the wine bottles are embossed with papal regalia and insignia.

Medieval Town of Gordes

After getting to taste some of the best wine in the world, it was time for lunch and we headed to one of the most stunning villages I had ever seen. Sitting high atop a hill is the medieval town of Gordes. We made a stop just before entering the city for the infamous breathtaking panoramic view. Driving in to the city we were told that we were lucky enough to have caught the last hour or so of the market in the main square, which was quite fun and interesting to see. We grabbed a couple of sandwiches from one of the shops and sat on the stone steps for our picturesque ‘picnic’ before taking some time to wander around. We didn’t have much time to go into any buildings, but just walking through the town itself was pretty amazing.

Hilltop Village of Roussillon

We left Gordes and headed to Roussillon, a hilltop village famous for its striking red cliffs and ochre quarries. It is situated in the centre of one of the largest ochre deposits in the world, so it is not surprising to see that the entire town is coloured in various pigments of ochre, from yellow, to orange, to red. With the brilliant reddish hues of the buildings, the bright blue skies of Provence, the greenery all around, and the vibrantly painted doors and shutters, Roussillon is truly a living work of art.

Les Baux de Provence

Next, we proceeded to Les Baux de Provence. All of the different villages we visited had their own distinct charm, but there was something about Les Baux that really drew us in. Perhaps it was its important role in history, or the authentic castle ruin overlooking Provence and the planes to the south, or the delightful shops selling everything from lavender soaps to delectable cookies and caramels. Whatever it was, it had us in a trance.

This picturesque village once served as a defensive site due to its advantageous position in the Alpilles Mountains. Traces of occupation have been found dating back to as far as 6000 BC, making one of the earliest settlements. During the Middle Ages it was incredibly powerful, controlling 79 towns and villages in the surrounding area. At one point Les Baux became a centre for Protestantism and rebelled against the crown. They were unsuccessful and in 1632 Cardinal Richelieu demanded the destruction of the castle and its walls. A lively village with thousands of inhabitants in its day, Les Baux de Provence now serves mainly as a tourist site.

Pont du Gard (Roman aqueduct)

Last, but certainly not least, we took a trip to Pont du Gard, an ancient Roman aqueduct that crosses the river Gard. It stands 161 feet tall 899 feet long and comprises of 3 levels of arches. In 1985 it was added to the list of UNESCO World Heritage Sites because, as it states on the list, the hydraulic engineers and architects of this bridge created, not only a technical marvel, but also a work of art. During this time the area was overcrowded with vehicle traffic, but in 1996 with the help of the French government, UNESCO, and the EU, the General Council of the Gard embarked on a four year mission to improve the area. Now the bridge sits in a pedestrian only park and even has a visitor’s information centre and museum, making it overall a much more quiet and pleasant visit. When we got there the sun was just starting to descend giving everything a nice warm orange tinge. It was not very busy so we were able to get to areas where we were completely alone, giving us some great photo opportunities. Also, there was a dried up area of the river where you can climb down to and get some truly amazing pictures.

Great Food & Atmosphere at L'Isle Sonnante in Avignon

We arrived back in Avignon just before dinner and went to a small quaint little restaurant called L’Isle Sonnante. It was the quintessential French bistro and although it wasn’t fancy, nor was it on any ‘top restaurant’ list, we actually had a much better meal here. It is hard to find a bad restaurant in France, so whether you’re paying 200 pounds or 75 pounds, you’re sure to have an amazing meal. To end our perfect day we took a stroll through the streets of Avignon at night, which was nothing short of spectacular. Just off the main square is a pastry shop that also serves ice cream, but not just in the traditional buckets and scoops. They have a line of about 10, maybe more, soft serve machines, each containing a different flavour. It looked like a carnival game, except everyone wins here.

Avignon and the area surrounding has so much to offer. One could spend weeks just in the south of France, but alas, it was time for us to say goodbye.